I Dream of Dinner (so You Don't Have To)

March 7, 2022
Inspired by her mother and nonna, who “cook quickly but thoughtfully,” recipe developer Slagle serves up a collection of tasty dishes that can be whipped up in 45 minutes or less. Ingredients (which put to work “pantry lurkers” such as grains and canned beans) are presented via a shopping list to the left of directions that repeat them in boldface with measurements and prep; it’s an unusual yet effective style that can be read with a brisk scan (a necessity when dinnertime looms). Slagle amps up eggs, scrambling them with harissa, chopped dates, and pita chips that soften like migas in a browned-butter mix. Beans and legumes become deeply flavored in short order, thanks to boosters such as pickled peppers and their brine in Sloppy Joe’d red lentils, and anchovies in Slagle’s olive oil–braised chickpeas. Beyond the dishes that spotlight chicken and seafood are tempting meatless pairings, such as fennel and radicchio with macerated apricots, as well as innovative ways to treat tempeh, including crisped in a salad with kimchi. Meanwhile, cooking tips (like patting raw chicken dry before browning) open chapters with sure-footed nuggets of wisdom for “off-road” and “recover if there’s a screw-up.” This makes the task of cooking feel like a celebration.

April 1, 2022

Many books purport to offer easy weeknight meals but disguise cooking time with hidden prep and other complications--not Slagle's. She hits it out of the park with her first cookbook, collecting recipes that take 45 minutes or less and use 10 or fewer ingredients. Even easier, the recipes are organized by key ingredients, making it easy to start with whatever's already in the pantry or the slowly wilting produce in the vegetable crisper. In fact, Slagle strongly encourages (and suggests) ingredient substitutions for using up what she calls "pantry lurkers and produce on its last leg." Recipes are quick but do not skimp on flavor or creativity. This book makes it apparent that its author is a pro recipe developer, food stylist, and New York Times contributor, but cooks won't feel judged in the kitchen. Quite the opposite: the recipes, tone, photography, and layout are accessible and encouraging. There's plenty for both vegetarians and meat eaters and also for feeding picky eaters on a weeknight. VERDICT A must-purchase resource to answer the inevitable question: What's for dinner? --Sarah Tansley

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